Finally got to meet the Middle East, and managed to start literally in the middle of it: Israel. Even if not in the geographical middle of the region, Israel has been the center of attentions for many, many years.
Israel is a country of less than 9 million people - 75% of which Jews -, only 70 years old, surrounded by enemies, resulting in a continuous state of war since its foundation. Yet, it is the most advanced countries in the region, in terms of education, technology, entrepreneurship, industrial development, infrastructure, and economy in general. Some people even say that Israel is the Silicon Valley of this part of the world.
Being in a frequent state of war comes for much further in history. Since ever, Israel was located between empires fighting to conquer Israel in order to expand their domains. Israel became a nation about 1300 BC and is the only country in the world that keeps the same language, culture and religion since then. It’s impressive how strong their values are. It’s quite impressive how strong they are as a nation as well.
I’ve reflected a lot about the Israeli situation in the past few days - about how fair it is that the World decided that the jews should own back their land, about how quickly they transformed a poor Arab country in an economic power, about why the jews have been chased all over history. Is it because they never adapted to the outside world that they have always been attacked, or is it because they have always been attacked that they never adapted? Out of curiosity, did you know that Israel means “struggle with God”?
There’s something else that has kept my mind busy in the past few days - religion. I will talk about it as I describe our days here in Israel.
We met at Orly airport around 5 am on June 1st. Around 2 pm, local time, we made it through security at the Tel Aviv airport. Luckily, Shai - our Israeli friend - was the first one to talk to the border control people, and managed to avoid weird questions and constraints.
We stayed in a really cool hostel in the center of Tel Aviv - Abraham Hostel -, 12 boys in one room, 3 girls in another room, and Laurinha by herself. Shai (aka the boss) had it all planned, so we just followed instructions the entire time.
Our Israeli experience started at Dr Shakshuka, with an enormous lunch of salads, humous, tahini, shawarma, shakshuka, roasted lamb, pitta bread (for everyone but me), and more, and more, and more. The common element of all our meals in Israel was the absurd number of small plates in the table, and the exaggerated amount of food. Very full, we walked around the cute streets of Jaffa (Tel Aviv oldest and most historical neighbourhood), and then along the sea front. Before heading back to the hostel, we crossed the nicest neighbourhood in town: Rothschild. Some took a nap, while others met Shai’s friends straight away. He booked to big tables at a cool bar called Beer Garden, and gathered both old Israeli friends and new INSEADers. From there, we went clubbing and… damn, Tel Aviv nightlife is something!
Day number two was pretty relaxed. Before the big event of the day - dinner at Shai’s parents’ - everyone did whatever they felt like doing. Laura and I did a good workout at the hostel’s rooftop, and then went for a yummy brunch in Tel Aviv’s coolest street. From there, we walked to the market, where we experienced the movement, noise and colours expectable in the Middle East. Before heading to Shai’s parents, we enjoyed a few hours at the beach. Dinner was again very good. The brave souls went clubbing. The weak ones, me included, went to the hostel after a drink in one bar in town.
Day three walked us through the history of Israel and the Catholic Church. It was the day to explore the North of the country. We left the hostel with our guide - one of Shai’s best friends - around 10:30 am. We walked in the waters of Magrase Wadi. They mark old frontiers with Syria and represent the importance of water during war. There, we learnt a bit about the history of the country and it’s fight against its five surrounding enemies. We then passed through the Sea of Galilee, the Golden Heights, and stopped at Capharnaum, which was home for many important religious entities, such as apostles Simon Peter, Andrew, James and John, as well the town of Jesus. The last stop of the day was Nazareth, “the Arab capital of Israel” (70% Muslims, 30% Christians), which interestingly enough is known to be the childhood home of Jesus. It is also home to the Church of the Annunciation, the place where Annunciation took place. The day finished with a brutal lunch/dinner still in the capital of Northern Israel, and a walk back in Tel Aviv to digest it.
Day number three was pretty rough to me. I visited some of the holiest places on Earth - Capharnaum and Narareth -, places that mean so much to so many people, and I felt nothing. Actually, I felt like a rock. It’s crazy how so many people are dependent on religion and others just don’t let it go through their lives. Is it weird that I don’t feel the need to be religious or that I don’t follow any God? Is it good or bad to be an atheist?
The following day was very special. It was time to visit Jerusalem. We had a wake-up call at 6:00 am in order to make sure we had time for everything. Our first stop was at Mount of Olives, the mountain adjacent to Jerusalem and the land of the major Jewish cemetery in the world. It is described as the place from which Jesus ascended to heaven, and has a very significant meaning for Catholics, Orthodox and Protestants. From there, we went to the City of David, the original urban core ancient Jerusalem. Now an Arab neighbourhood, it still holds relevant archaeological sites and very old water tunnels, where we walked in the dark. Despite the important biblical meaning of the City of David, still no archaeological evidence of his presence has been found in the region - only evidence of his successors.
From there, we moved to Jerusalem, the claimed capital of both Israelis and Palestinians. There, we spent some time at the Western Wall, the holiest place on Earth for the Jewish, after the Temple Mount, which lies behind it. There, people leave their wishes and pray to God. Nowadays, it seems to have an effect in everyone - Jewish and non-Jewish -, and you can see anyone spending some time facing the wall and reflecting/ meditating/ praying for a bit. It is a truly special place. Due to Ramadan, the Muslim sites of Jerusalem (Dome of the Rock and al-Aqsa Mosque) were closed. So, after a quick shawarma lunch, we moved to the Christian part of town. We walked around the city, following the 14 marks of Jesus history in Jerusalem, and checking all the Christian points. We ended our Jerusalem chapter by visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. What a day! So many religions, values, people and cultures laying in the same little place. Unlike the day before, and even though I don’t associate myself with any religion, I felt a special vibe around me. It was good to see how so many different people felt so much (and such different things) in the same place. And it is quite interesting to realize that the three major religions in the world share holy sites. Here we said goodbye to our amazing tour guide: Ma’or Perry (+972522214814, maorperry@gmail.com).
We then travelled for a few more hours towards the desert, where we went on a camel ride, had dinner, drank a few beers and ate a few s’mores around a fire bond (I just looked at people doing this, of course), and slept in a tent, all together.
Day number five was one of my favourites too. We woke up before 4 am, in order to make it to the top of Masada before the sunrise. We hiked for half an hour, saw the sunset on the top of the rock, explored the ancient palace and Jew site, heard the amazing story of the place, and then hiked down for about one hour. The story of Masada is quite special and reflects a lot the values of the Jews. I won’t tell you about it because I don’t want to ruin your experience, one day that you go there. Let me just leave you Masada’s motto: “Masada shall never fall again”. What a special place as well…! After a quick breakfast box at the bottom of the mountain, we checked some fresh water springs, and then went to the Dead Sea, for some floating and mud baths. By the middle of the afternoon, and after 12h awake, we arrived in Tel Aviv. I worked out while most of us napped, and then we went out for dinner and a few drinks.
And this is how it all ended. On the next day, I just checked an artist market and then enjoyed a few hours at the hostel, doing admin stuff. Some went sailing, others went brunching, and that’s it. We went to the airport a few hours in advance, to experience the strictest border process in the world.
Thank you Shai for such an amazing trip.
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